The 1996 Pichon-Lalande exhibits extraordinary sur-maturite due to the exceptional ripeness the Medoc’s Cabernet Sauvignon achieved in this vintage. The wine has tightened up since my tasting in the spring, but it remains an opaque purple-colored example with a smoky, blueberry, blackberry, and cassis-scented nose that is to die for. Medium to full-bodied, with huge extract as well as extraordinary elegance, and a perfect marriage between new oak, fruit, and tannin, this is one of the more structured and tannic Pichon-Lalandes I have ever tasted, yet the wine’s triumph is a result of its sweetness of tannin.

As I indicated in my earlier review of the wine, an atypically high percentage of Cabernet Sauvignon (75%) was used in the blend, with an abnormally small percentage of Merlot (5%). In most vintages Pichon-Lalande contains 30%-40% Merlot, so the 1996 may be the most Cabernet Sauvignon-based wine made at this estate in memory. A profound success, the 1996 is one of the finest examples made under the regime of Madame de Lencquesaing. Anticipated maturity: 2002-2025. The 1995/1996 vintages are two of the greatest back to back efforts Pichon-Lalande has ever produced, including the 1982/1983 vintages.

| Robert Parker