The 2006 Calvari is a towering wine of epic proportions. Dark, hulking and muscular, it emerges from the glass with masses of blackberry and blueberry jam, spices, new leather espresso and grilled herbs. Graphite and licorice follow, adding further layers of complexity that lead to the marvelously explosive, palate staining finish. The Calvari possesses dazzling power, class and intensity, all in a style that elevates Refosco to a level this rustic, indigenous grape has never aspired to. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2026.

Enzo Pontoni is simply on another planet. In the best years his wines frankly have no peers in Italy. The textural richness and depth Pontoni coaxes from his old-vine parcels is a marvel. The 2009 whites show an extra dimension of ripeness from a heat wave in August of that year that gave the wines more body than is often the case but without the excess of truly torrid vintages. Quite simply, I was blown away by what I tasted. For what it’s worth, I bought as much of these wines as I could afford. As usual, the wines are aged in French oak (roughly 40% new) and the malolactic fermentations are typically blocked.

 | Robert Parker