The Van Volxem 2010 Scharzhofberger Riesling Beerenauslese mingles mint candy and white peach syrup, honey and nougat, yet at the same time suggestions of juicy citrus and of cooling, pungent fresh herbs offer counterpoint, refreshment, and leavening to this viscous, satin-textured elixir. Bright elements get the upper-hand in this deeply-rich wine’s long finish, with fresh ginger and lemon rind adding to its vibratory sense of sheer invigoration. I’m sure I just utilized a number of adjectives that I have not previously applied to any nobly sweet wine at this address. Perhaps the stylistic change here is entirely due to vintage compulsion; but I would be the last to complain if it proved to be based in part on aesthetic assessment. I suspect this will remain superb for three decades if not longer.

| Robert Parker