Vincent Dauvissat, Les Preuses 2007
How I just love the Chablis of Vincent Dauvissat. No other Chablis I am aware of, is so laser focused, so minimalistic while overwhelming as Vincent's grand cru’s (not to sell the "Les Forest" short, which is great in its own right). Pretty much like Vincent himself, who I had the great pleasure meeting at a tasting once. When praising him for his great achievements he, seemingly unmoved, responded: "good", While waving his hand to show his seeming indifference to whether someone would like it or not.
The Les Preuses 2007, light golden color, opens with taking full grip of your gums right there, with intense, almost fat, minerality, as contradictory as that sounds, playing your taste sensory systems in full, while 100% pure and linear. You actually have the sensation of being at the ocean, in your sensory system. Interestingly the wine reveals itself at first intensely and mostly in your gums, and more subtly on your palate. With the Le Fevre typically on the dry side of the spectrum and the Raveneau on the big and rich side, Dauvissat stands out on purity like you’re coasting, as a single bird over an endless ocean.
After minutes the 2007 is showing some quite rich mature lemony and subdued sea salty dimensions, but ever so subtle and in perfect harmony. This wine is so profound that you actually don’t need oysters to get the sensation of enjoying some extraordinary sea delicacies. Fully mature now and all there to indulge. Wonderful!