The 2007 Barolo Riserva Villero is a wine of staggering beauty and downright flawlessness. Its perfection is measured by the experience it awards those lucky enough to drink it. Only 3,726 bottles were produced and I tested two of those. From the moment your nose descends into the glass, you are made instantly aware of the enormity before you. I felt a profound sense of exhilaration and emotion. The wine is arousing in a way that only Nebbiolo can be. The bouquet is fluid and ever-changing with pressed rose, dried ginger, balsam herb, menthol freshness, licorice and wild berry. The presentation is multifaceted and infinite. The quality of the mouthfeel is pristine and intense with softly yielding tannins that maintain an important structural role. Laced delicately throughout its velvety texture is a fine vein of crisp acidity that adds vibrant life and buoyancy to the long finish. In almost inexplicable fashion, the wine manages to feel weightless, but is potent and commanding at the same time.

| Monica Larner