The awesome 1998 Cote Rotie La Mouline is a seamless, full-bodied classic with many characteristics of the 1997 La Landonne , but more structure, tannin, and muscle. It will need two years of cellaring, and will last for twenty years. Stylistically, it is reminiscent of the 1988.

These tasting notes will not surprise any longtime readers. I have never made a secret of the fact that if I had only one wine left to drink, I would want it to be one of the great vintages of Guigal's Cote Rotie La Mouline. This wine''s aromatic fireworks, sumptuous texture, and seamless personality represent perfection. While the percentage of Viognier blended with Syrah can vary from 8-12% (even higher in a vintage such as 1996), this remains one of the world's most intensely perfumed and compelling wines. Every vintage has its share of bacon fat, toast, cassis, acacia flower, black raspberry, creme de cassis, and tapenade notes. A voluptuous texture, sweet tannin, and a satiny smooth demeanor are hallmarks of La Mouline, whether it's a difficult (1974) or great vintage (1999). As it ages, aromas of violets and peaches also emerge.

All of the "La La" offerings (as Guigal's fans call them) are aged 42 months in 100% new Francois Freres barrels, experience minimal racking as well as sulphur, and are bottled with neither fining nor filtration. While critics call them branded wines, they always emerge from the same vineyard parcels. In response to the criticism that they are oaky, virtually no new wood can be detected in the wines after 6-8 years of cellaring.

| Robert Parker