The 2006 Barolo Rocche shows incredible definition in detail in its perfumed, floral personality. The 2006 is not as explosive as the 2004 was at this stage, but it is eerily reminiscent of the 1989 in its sweet, Pinot-like fruit. With time in the glass, the fruit gains even more clarity while the bouquet blossoms with incredible grace, all supported by ultra-fine, silky tannins. Today the Rocche is soft and relatively accessible, but it is sure to firm up in bottle. In 2006 the Rocche saw 30 days of maceration on the skins and was aged predominantly in cask with a brief spell in French oak in between for the malolactic fermentation, a blend of traditional and modern approaches that has yielded phenomenal results here. Of course, everything starts in the vineyard, and Vietti's commitment to low yields means that they are among the first growers to harvest in most vintages.

| Robert Parker