Jean-Nicolas Méo has really excelled himself with the 2018 Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Au Cros-Parantoux, which he notes was picked a little earlier than usual, and produced only moderate yields this year. Unwinding in the glass with complex aromas of smoky berry fruit, cassis and spices, complemented by suggestions of grilled squab, blood orange and espresso, the wine is full-bodied, velvety and enveloping, with exquisite structural finesse, terrific concentration and lively acids that render it at once dynamic and complete. This is a brilliant young wine in the making.