Iris, narcissus, peony, heliotrope, lemon, white peach, and litchi combine for the knockout nose of Raveneau’s 2008 Chablis Montee de Tonnerre. Uncannily combining a sense of textural richness, underlying extract, and decisively stony, alkaline, chalky, oyster shell minerality that go beyond its fellow premier crus in this collection. Yet this preserves a vintage-typical core of primary juiciness that helps convey lip-smacking appeal. Musky, sweet floral notes cling to the prodigiously long, expansive, finish of this almost certainly relatively un-evolved wine. Give it several years in bottle and expect to be rewarded for over a decade.

| Robert Parker