The 2015 Clos de Tart Grand Cru was tasted both as separate cuvées from individual parcels around the vineyard (always a stimulating and insightful exercise) and of course, as the final blend, assembled in the same proportion as eventually bottled. It has a classic bouquet, a mixture of red and black fruit, hints of dried rose petals in a vase and a distant sea-spray scent that becomes more accentuated with time in the glass. There is a sense of restraint here, keeping lock and key on the precocity of the growing season. The palate is very well balanced with a superb line of razor-sharp acidity, palpable 'coolness' imparted by the assiduous early picking. It is equipped with fine tannin, imbued with natural poise and gathers more black fruit towards the finish that offers a subtle slate-like note. It is one of the best I have tasted from this ancient vineyard, so assured and regal, destined to last more than 30 years with ease.

| Neil Martin