The Prum 2006 Bernkasteler Badstube Riesling Beerenauslese is, as already noted, the first of its kind. Cherry jam and grapefruit marmalade, mango and peach preserves, as well as floral and herbal distillates are suggested by the intensely ester-rich aroma. White raisin mingles with the confectionary fruit elements on the palate, which on the one hand displays remarkable density and considerable sheer viscosity; but on the other hand is supremely elegant and buoyant, traits perfectly reflected in its wafting length. All the way through this collection, in fact, neither clarity nor delicacy has been significantly sacrificed as we climb from one degree of botrytization to another. Every element of these grapes, including their acidity, was obviously concentrated with the minimum imaginable disruption or blemish.

| Robert Parker